by Jackie Nunnery –
While a paper product shortage consumed much attention in the early stages of the stay-at-home orders, area shoppers have since seen grocery store shelves nearly depleted of fresh produce and meat. The COVID-19 virus has forced closures at some of the nation’s largest meat processing plants and limited the ability of large produce farmers to harvest, leaving chain supermarkets with fewer options and empty shelves.
While the large-scale food chain is struggling with the disruption, there is an upside. People are now discovering a new food chain; one of smaller-scale farmers and independent farmers markets.
The farm stand is nothing new in the Northern Neck. For decades, farmers have set up along the road, sometimes directly out of the back of a truck, which is how Old Farm Truck Market, now in White Stone, first started a decade ago.
The “mastermind” behind the market, Jean Price, is “amazed at the support of the community” during this time.
At first, Price shut down the market, which is normally open year-round, to figure out how to reopen the store while keeping employees (often family members) and customers safe. They came up with curbside pick-up by appointment. Customers make selections from the market’s website during the week and they are given a time on Friday or Saturday to pick up their items.
“We thought for sure that they wouldn’t like the setup, but people have been absolutely wonderful,” Price said.
They are seeing more business, “about 40 to 50%,” and customers are “interested in trying new things,” Price said.
That is all welcome news for the small producers across the state where Price looks for a variety of products—everything from meat and produce to baked goods, eggs and dairy—that the market stocks. Many of the farmers markets that pop up every weekend across the Commonwealth have closed for the time being, eliminating a source of customers that many small farms rely on.
Land and Sea Market in Wicomico Church is also seeing a boom in business as folks support local watermen and farmers. Monica Fahey, who runs the market with her husband, Joe Fahey, brother-in-law, Jeff Fahey, and daughter, Margo Fahey, said that while this is only their second season “we’re seeing lots of new faces and our weekdays are double what they were at this time last year.”
Fahey thinks that in addition to wanting “healthy, fresh food,” there are a few other things driving people to small farm markets. “I think people would rather come here than a busy Food Lion,” she said of the small open-air market which includes an outdoor section of vegetable plants, flowers and landscaping plants.
“People are also anxious to do something, and they want to be productive,” Fahey said of people wanting to start growing their own food in addition to knowing more about the food they buy.
Fahey is not just supporting farmers and waterman, she’s “trying to support artisans” by stocking non-food items like soaps and candles, too. And that support goes both ways. “The community support of our business has been outstanding,” Fahey said.
Garner’s Produce has been a tradition around these parts, having grown produce and operated a farm stand outside Warsaw since 1960. Run by Meade Garner, daughter, Dana, and her husband, Bernard Boyle, daughter, Lora McCormick, and niece, Jessica Pitts, the family business has been doing well in the wake of the coronavirus closures, despite some concerns early in the season when they closed briefly at the end of March.
“We had greenhouses full of product,” they had planted in January before anyone knew what was coming Dana Boyle said, “We just kept asking ourselves if we should open or not.” She discussed it with her sister, Teresa Williams, a nurse practitioner, who told her “people need nutritious food right now,” and shared ways to make it safer for everyone. “We pre-packaged a lot of items, limited the number of people in the market, and we’re always cleaning everything.”
It also meant changing up how some people shop. In addition to stopping at the stand, “people can preorder online the day before,” and pick up anytime after 11 a.m. Boyle said.
Business at the market is “up 40 to 60% every day we’ve been open,” she said. Mostly locals but some newer faces. “People are coming to us when stores are sold out.”
Although they, like the larger markets, can still find it difficult to get pork or beef, “people are trying other cuts instead.” And people are also looking to eat better, continued Boyle. “The demand for fresh fruits and vegetables is up.” Despite the shaky start, they have not had to cut back on any planting and with the better weather, people are interested in the selection of plants they carry in addition to food.
“We’re so grateful that the stand is doing well and the community is supporting us,” she said.
